16mm
B&W and color
Silent
Alternate Title: Kletterschuh
Northeast Historic Film
[donor-supplied notes] KLETTERSCHUH CLIMBING in the DOLOMITES Scene I – Swiss Alps – The Matterhorn from the Riffelalp show the East Face left (never climb) The Hornli Ridge (regular route) and the famous North Face with Zutt Ridge to the right. Scene II – Ober Gabelhorn – Zinal Rothorn in row came swing right. 2nd Panorama: - Vally of Zmutt – Dent Blanche, Ober-Gabelhorn; Zinal Rothorn; Weisshorn; and east to Valley of the Visp and the Bietschhorn in the distance (Lo). Scene II – Panorama from the East (right to left) : The same peak at sun End of Swiss Section – compare with Dolomites Scene I – Tore Grande of the Cinque Torre Group – near Cortina D’Ampezzo – in Northern Italy. Camera swing to the right and show the great South Face of Tofana where the Austrians held back the Italians during the Great War. There are trenches still to be seen on the summit. There are t routes up this face. The came still swing to the right show Cortina D’Ampezzo nestled in the valley below, and behind the town the winding road leading over the Pass of the T Crosses. Further to the right are the gray peak of – Sorapis and Antelao. Scene II – Angelo Dima the elder of the two brothers – both famous Scene II – Boulder Practice Scene III – The point peak – (at left) Punta Fiammes is a 5th degree 5-6 hr. climb – (6th degree is illegitimate climbing using piton) The came swings right show Monte Cristallo highest in group. Scene IV – Giuseppe Dima with whom Miss Reid made first ascent on Piz Popena – south Face – Via Christine now called. Scene V – Sea of Clouds Scene VI – Equipment show: 120 feet of rope – piton hammers – piton Equipment cont. – Karabiner; Kletterschuh with rope or felt soles; canteen, sugar and prunes and apricots; hobbed nails boots used to foot of ascent; baggy trousers of preferably slippery material; rucksack to hold all – and Leica came. Scene VII – climbing Torre Lusy and demonstrating use of piton for INSURANCE only. – The distance a climber may fall is lessened by occasional piton in the most dangerous places. The CLIMBER DOES NOT HOLD ONTO THE PITONS OR KARABINER. Scene VIII – Roping off by the Dulfer method Thru legs across chest – diagonally and back over shoulder Where it is held with one hand – the other holds rope out in front of crotch about a foot away. Scene IX – Handholds and Foot placing – and piton work. Scene X – Chimney Work in Torre Ro Chimney. This chimney was 15 feet deep and the sun only came into it for 20 minutes e day. Reel II Scene II – Valley of St. Christina – Scene II – Langkofel Scene III – Guide – Giovanni Demetz show route of Adang Kaminn Scene IV – 5th Degree Chimney – The traverse is very airy – 30 people have been killed. The first man is belay by a piton – but the second man must release himself and if he falls he will swing down about twenty feet and across face for forty feet, where you may hit another face a glancing blow. Camera stops at critical point to allow belay of guide. Camera lady comes second. Scene V.- Motorcycles are used for travel. Scene VI – Via Olga Fake fall to show belay. Scene VII – Roping down two methods – Right – Dulfer Scene IX – Young guide below overhang of a new route. He is removing piton so no other person can make this illegitimate route. Scene X – An illegitimate ascent by Angelo and Giuseppe Dima : - Most of the route is an overhang – see how first man belays second. Scene XI – Very Difficult piece of Rock Work – An overhang requiring use of ladder and piton and karabiner – an illegitimate 6th degree grade climb. Use of double rope shown – this technique is similar to that used on the North Face of the Eiger, etc. Any difficult face (almost) can be climb in this manner. Cost of average good climb 500-700 lire or ten dollars or more Average length of climbs 3-9 hours.
Amateur Cinema